A winter vacation with Kiwi but no bugs

I’m just home from a 10-day stay with friends in New Zealand. The trip actually took 14 days with travel time from Ely to Duluth to Chicago to San Francisco to Auckland, New Zealand and then a hop to the town of Nelson on the southern of the two islands, where friends Brian and Marjorie live. The longest flight, from San Francisco to Auckland, took 13 hours, made more pleasant even in coach by a choice of good movies, two hot meals and a night’s worth of sleep.

Over my vacation there I was struck by the similarities between our northwoods and the Nelson area. First come the beautiful forests. Given the difference that it’s summer down under and that theirs is a temperate, oceanic climate with current temps in the 70-80 degree range, both summer forests are lush and vibrant.

While Ely hosts canoers, New Zealand has a strong trekking culture. Visitors from all over the world, especially young people, arrive with backpacks dangling with gear to hike the well maintained paths in the area’s mountainous parks and to kayak on ocean bays. In a morning stroll down any residential street in Nelson, I’d come across one or two bed-and-breakfasts with walkers and hikers heading out for the day. The Abel Tasman, nearby, is one of three New Zealand national parks considered the most popular in the world.

We prepped for a short hike there one day by slathering on high protection sun lotion at 50 SPF, since ozone depletion increases sunburn risks in the part of the world closer to Antarctica. In addition to the trek up hillsides, lush with flora from fern trees to giant eucalyptus and pine, the paths often run along the South Pacific shore. The day’s adventure started with a 90-minute bus ride through vineyards and villages to the tourist beach at Anchorage, where we caught a water taxi. The boats that carry from 10 to 90 passengers stop at beaches along the way to pick up and drop off passengers who are doing day trips or several-day treks. We waded to the golden sand at Torrent Bay and set off uphill for two and a half hours of climb and descent past waterfalls and creeks, hilltop views of ocean islands and craggy shorelines, and finally, shell hunting along the shore until the water taxi came for us. On the way back we watched a pod of dozens of dolphins with adults and young ones leaping around the boat.

Boosted by vibrant tourism traffic, the area seems economically strong with a healthy middle class. The minimum wage for workers over age 16 is $14.25 an hour. Prices for food and supplies are about double what we’d find in the U.S. The good news is that the American dollar is worth $1.30 in New Zealand dollars.

“G’day, mate,” is a common greeting, and an easy-going attitude is commonly expressed with what seems nearly a mantra, “No worries.” New Zealanders might even do us one better on Minnesota nice. Another big plus in the Kiwi experience is freedom from pesky bugs. Walking a few blocks through a residential area into town, I commonly saw windows and patio doors open wide. My hosts, who live most of the year in Minneapolis, recently bought a house there and were concerned because the windows had no screens. It soon became apparent that they weren’t needed. Leaving the house wide open might mean having to swat a total of two flies indoors during the day.

The kiwi bird is a national symbol in a country rife with beautiful birds and a few invasive mammals. Rats and possums, for example, imported species that burgeoned and played havoc with local flora, are cheerfully trapped and killed. The furry possums are a source of plush fiber that is added to the abundant supply of merino sheep’s wool to create lovely yarn.

In the Nelson area, population about 60,000, crime is of small concern. New Zealand police don’t carry guns, nor does a preponderance of the public. My hosts characterized the culture as somewhat libertarian, where a minimal number of laws are strictly enforced. Perhaps because the government covers all medical costs if residents or visitors are injured there, some of those laws focus on safety. Bicyclers, to a person, wear helmets. Cars stop for all pedestrians. In ten days I didn’t see one driver talking on a cell phone.

While Minnesotans enjoy fish frys, the Kiwis love their fish and chips. We also have greenstone in common — well, a bit in common. Theirs is actually a vivid nephrite jade found only on the southern island and important in the indigenous Maori culture. The most prized pieces are passed from one generation to the next, and some were presented as symbols of important agreements.

My trip home was a bit fraught — I was forced to run to make plane connections in Auckland and Chicago. Settling in back at home, I notice we have plenty to enjoy here in Ely with the Winter Festival coming up, snow in the forecast for skiers, and downright balmy temps in the 30-degree range. I’ve traded dolphins for wolves and water taxis for snow machines. But one thing is the same: no bugs are getting into the house.

It’s good to be home.